|1999 Rover 800 825 V6 Coupe Battery to Boot Conversion.|
Car: 1999 Rover 800 825 V6 Coupe
Battery to Boot Conversion Page 1 Page 2 Page 3
The wiring of a battery to boot conversion does not have to be as complicated as things first seem. The positive from the battery simply has to feed two things, the solenoid on the starter motor and the main fuse box power.
To do this some people will connect the new cable from the boot to the old battery terminal joint (which can look a bit messy depending on how its done). Some others chose to take the main cable direct to the started motor solenoid and feed another wire back to the main fuse box. I choose what I think is the neatest method through, and have the main cable go from the battery in the boot to the main fusebox with a short wire off this to the starter motor.
I have also seen some complex multi-wired joints (whilst I was researching what others had tried on the internet) that seriously baffled me and nearly put me off even trying to do this project. Unless you are having to fit an emergency toggle on/off switch for racing use, I do not see any reason why anyone should try and make this simple straightforward wiring more complicated. Although safety should always be a main issue, and so you should be careful of the route of your cable in places and use conduit throughout the install whenever you can.
On the earth side of things, these should be kept as short as possible. You still need to earth the cars' engine to the chassis. But the negative wire from the batteries new location should go to a good earth point as near as possible to the battery itself.
Anyway here are some more piccies of what was done on my Rover 800 Coupe when I relocated my car battery to the car boot.
So far, The Main Cable has Been Connected to the Fuse Box and a Shorter Wire has Been Fed off it to the Starter Motor (Solenoid). This Shorter Wire has Now Had an End Crimped/Soldered and Heat Shrinked Onto it. With Some Insulation Tape Also Used Just for Good Measure!
The Positive Wire to the Starter Has now Been Connected up, with the Original Dust Cover for the Nut Also in Place.
The Old Earth Wire Connection For the Battery Has Been Cut Off Just Above where it Connected to the Car Body. That way the Old Earth Wire on this Car Still Connects the Engine to the chassis. (You Must Earth the Engine).
Now the Engine Bay Has Been Wired up the Fuse Box is Refitted. The Battery Tray is No Longer of Any Use & so just the Part that Holds the Cars' ECU has been Painted and the ECU has been refitted.
The Battery to Boot Cable is Cable Tied up to the Other Wires in the Wheel Arch.
The Rubber Gromit End is now Sealed up to Prevent any Water from getting into the Passenger Compartment. The Wheel Arch Liner was Also Refitted.
The Cable Can Now be Fitted Towards the Rear of The Car. First it is Feed Under the Gap in the First Section of Trunking that was Created Earlier.
The Cable is then Passed Through the Second Section of Trunking. Before this could be done the Rear Seat had to be Removed and the Rear Panel was Unclipped from inside the Rear of the Car.
The Cable was then Passed through Behind the Panel in the Rear and then into the Boot. The Trim was Put back and the Rear Seat Back was put back in place.
The Main Cable has now been Fed through to the Boot. As you can see, I had Ordered Enough to fit the Battery Wherever I Needed to.
I Decided that the Battery was Definitely Being Fitted Central Behind the Rear Seats. The Battery Would Require a Good Earth Point to the Car Body from the Negative Battery Terminal. After Testing with a MultiMeter I was Happy that the Rear Seat Mounting Point Provided a Very Good Earth and so the Negative Cable was Attached and the Seat Back was Bolted Back in Place.
The Boot was Cleared of all the Junk.
The Car Battery was to be fitted where the Tool Kit Fits Now.
With Both the Positive and Negative Cables now Fitted through to the Boot Area, the Rear Seat Base was put Back in Place.
The Area where the Battery is to be fitted is sloped!
I Decided I wanted a Small Shelf Making to Install A Battery Box on Top of (Even though the Type of Car Battery I am Using at Present can be Fitted Any Way Up!).
By Fitting the Battery Here Rather than in One of the back Corners in the Boot, This Keeps the Weight Over the Back Axle, Rather Than Right at the Back, Also By Sinking the Battery it Gives the Car an ever so Slightly Lower Centre of gravity!
Now I had a Template Created from Cardboard this could be used to Help Create a Small Shelf out of Aluminium Alloy.
A Sheet of Aluminium Alloy (3mm Thick) was Purchased. The Sizes from the Cardboard Cut-Out were Copied on to the Sheet and they were Cut Out as Required.
The 2 Pieces of Alloy Sheet were Clamped Together.
The 2 Pieces of Alloy Sheet were Drilled and Riveted Together. Originally I Did want them Welded Together, but Without Aluminium Welding Facilities at Hand (and a 3 Week Wait if we Wanted it Done by the Aluminium Supplier) this was a much Cheaper and Quicker Method and the Results Were Far Better Than Expected! (The Rivets were Very Flush with the Surface).
Although a Battery Box was going to Sit Neatly on top of the Alloy Shelf, We needed a way To Clamp the Battery into the box. My Brother came up with the Clever Idea, that I could Clamp the Battery Directly to the Shelf, By Creating 2 Flaps which will Fit Through the Battery Box.
(This was a Far Better Idea than the Much Less Secure Method of Fitting the Box to the Shelf and the Battery to the Box).
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